devoted to the study of temari and mathematics
This investigation looks at creating a star shape by layering and weaving crossed spindles or wrapped bands. I originally used the technique on #050704 a design from the Japanese book Fun With Temari (ISBN 4-8377-0103-5). It turns out that the technique can be extrapolated to a star with any number of points as long as you have the patience and thread size to do it.
These stars are all done using a crossed element of some sort. They can be crossed spindles (#070202), wrapped bands (#070304), or wrapped bands that crossover as they are wrapped (#070302). You can work them on a simple division temari or do multiple ones on a combination division depending on how you plan the elements. The number of points on the star is determined by the number of elements that cross. Three crossed bands results in a 6 pointed star, 5 crossed bands results in a 10 pointed star. These stars will always have an even number of points. There is some limit to the size of the star because you will be weaving under the bulk of it with each round. At some point the curvature of the ball makes it difficult to do that without dislodging previous rows.
The weaving is easier to do if there are not marking threads in the way. You can mark the ball with your wrap thread, use marking threads that you remove after the first round, or just place the pins for the marking and use them for the first round without ever applying marking threads. Personally I like to just use pins and not mess with marking threads at all but that is not always practical depending on the other elements of the design.
This description will show how to do the layering and weaving at one intersection. I will refer to wrapping each band but it is the same if you are stitching spindles. If you choose to do a ball with multiple stars on it you will need to repeat the basics at each intersection point. You will need to stitch the sections in the same order each time so use marker pins or number flags or whatever helps you to keep track. It is easier if you are using different colors for each band.
Start by wrapping your first band with one row to the left and right of center. Each additional row will always be on both sides of the band.
Each additional band will go over the near half of the band closest to it and under all of the others to emerge and go over the half of the band closest to it on the other side. When you are putting on the first round it is a bit more difficult to know which is an over and under, but it is not that big of a deal if it is out of whack a little unless you are using a large thread on a many pointed star. The first color you put on will end up looking a bit out of place when you are done and will be more prominent in the center of the finished star. Do one row on all bands.



For each additional round always go over the near half of the band nearest to the one you are working on and under all of the others. The wedge shaped sections of the star are created by the layering combined with the weaving so it is important to maintain the same sequence in each round. The star sections will begin to appear after about three rounds (depending on your thread size). Keep adding rows until you are satisfied with the size of the star. A final row with a contrasting thread can help to define the outline of the star.
You can add straight stitches across the center of the star between outer points or inner points if you want more definition between the sections (or if you want to hide a messy center). See the variations below for examples.
This is the original star design I tried. It is from the Japanese book referenced above; all I did was change the colors. It has the basic star with straight stitches done over the sections to separate them for a stained glass look. It is notebook entry #050704.
This is really just another version of the one above but the straight stitches are left off at the end. These two are the ones I used to write up the pattern on temarikai.com. It is notebook entry #050804.
This is first test I did of more than six points. It is four crossed spindles in one color. A single row of gold highlights the star shape. This one does have marking threads giving a nice gold highlight in the center of the spindles and the very center point of the star. It is notebook entry #070201.
I wanted to do a really big star. This one uses eight different colors on a simple 16 division. The stitching elements are large spindles that go from the equator across the poles to the equator on the opposite side. It is notebook entry #070202.
A C8 trial. The bands are wrapped with crossovers at the 4-way intersections. You end up with only one color at the 6-way intersections and two colors alternating at the 8-way intersections. The 8 point stars have the look of a classic quilt block when colored like this. It is notebook entry #070301.
Another version of the eight pointed stars in the previous variation. This time threads with varying textures were used. The straight stitches across the poles were placed to separate the colors rather than every section of the star. This one is quite a bit smaller that the others. It is notebook entry #070302.
This C8 is stitched with crossed spindles. Notice that the 6 pointed stars are not quite symmetrical because the spindles do not cross exactly dead center. It is notebook entry #070303.
A sample using regular wrapped bands with no crossovers. Also, a gradation of colors was used in the bands to give more of a starburst effect to the stars. It is notebook entry #070304.
You can use this technique anywhere you have crossed elements, so you can add stars to many existing designs. Color variations can give some interesting effects too. Experiment and enjoy!