Notebook Entry - 050601
Finished Views


Source
Varies, see directions below
Classification
C8, rose garden
Size
30.5cm circumference
Materials
- Wrap
- white cone thread
- Marking
- Gold rush 18 gold color
- Design threads
- Anchor perle #5 Dark Pink (89), Light pink (95), Dark Purple (111), Light Purple (108), Dark Blue (132), Light Blue (144), also a med blue and med purple
Division/Marking
C8, some support lines as noted in directions
Diagrams

Side 1

Side 2

Side 3

Side 4

Side 5

Side 6
Directions
- Side 1 is a standard rose garden with the colors going from light to dark. (Work about 6 rows on a square, then rotate and work 6 rows on the alternate square with the starting point for the stitches being just outside of the side of the previous square, repeat.) Source: various...this is the standard and is listed in almost all beginner level books.
- Side 2 shows two different color techniques...first use alternating colors on the squares for a quilt block look and second, start each round with a row of high contrast to define the shapes and give almost a stained glass effect. Source: ISBN 4-8377-0591-x (Temari for 12 months, vol 2) pg. 31
- Side 3 again uses only two colors but instead of doing the rounds in blocks of rows you do one row on a square, then do one row on the alternate square. This is the technique used on #050502. Source: Source: ISBN 4-8377-0591-x (Temari for 12 months, vol 2) pg. 30.
- Side 4 uses a standard variation of colors going from dark to light. Also, this one was worked with three strands of thread in the needle and the stitches were offset for a slight swirl effect on the outer edges. Source: ISBN 4-8377-0491-3 (Temari for Four Seasons Vol. 2) page 11 ball number 5. This is a C10 version I adapted to the C8.
- Side 5 is my favorite I think. Add support lines between the lines on the square to give a total of 16 lines. Using your light color, work a square of about 4 rows on the original 'straight' lines of the square. Then, shift over to the right one line and work a square of 4 rows with your second color placing your stitches just outside the side of the previous round. Continue alternating colors and shifting one line to the right each time. As you get farther out, gradually increase the number of rows in each square. This one uses a ton of thread since it layers quite a bit. The design will feel 'thick'. Source: ISBN 4-8377-0597-9 (Unbelievable Temari from Nagano) pg. 4 This is a C10 version I adapted. I think I like it on a C8 better.
- Side 6 has a much lacier look. I used 2 strands of thread in the needle and did one row per round. The colors go from light to dark. I added the extra support lines again, but this time each round is worked on 8 lines giving alternating octagons instead of squares. The first round is an octagon worked close to the center. For the second row, line your stitches up so that the stitches just touch the points of the stitches in the previous round (instead of using the side of the previous round to place the stitches). You will end up with blank space between each round giving an open, lacy look. Source: Kindof like the one in ISBN 4-8377-0491-3 (Temari for Four Seasons Vol. 2) page 9 ball number 9...I was just playing around trying to find a 6th variation to finish the ball.
Notes
This was done for a C8 sampler on talktemari. I was pretty uninspired so I decided to do a study of the rose garned stitch element. When I was going back through my books trying to find the sources I found another cool variation...it is just a different way to use color on a standard rose garden...within each round use several colors and shade from light to dark.
Given To
No one yet