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Notebook Entry - 071001

Finished Views

 
N pole view  

Source

Japanese book ISBN 4-8377-0696-7 color picture page 20 ball # 2, diagram page 59 bottom

Classification

C8, open shape, layered, interlocked, all over

Size

26.5cm circumference

Materials

Wrap

grey cone thread

Marking

Bunka unchained, non descript color

Design threads

DMC #5 perle cotton yellow (726), green (988), blue (3325)

Division/Marking

C8

Diagrams

Diagram 1: first round  
Diagram 2: second round  

Directions

1. Wrap mari and mark a C8 with a flat thread.
2. You will be wrapping squares outside the squares of the C8 but not taking stitches. The earlier rounds will have a tendency to slip so start by placing pins at each of the 6 way intersections.
3. Start in the middle of the side of a square and wrap around the outside of the square (and the pins) with blue. Do not place too much tension on the thread or the rows will collapse into a pile at the corner. You want them to make as smooth a curve as possible. Wrap five rows around this square.
4. Repeat the last step for the square on the oppisite side of the ball. Call this pair of squares A.
5. Now pick another square and repeat wrapping 5 rows around the outside of the pins with yellow. These will be layered over the rows you did for A. Do the opposite square as well. This pair of squares will be B.
6. The last pair of squares will be wrapped for 5 rows with green but these must be interwoven with the previous squares. For these you will always go under the A rows and over the B rows. In this case it is under the blue and over the yellow. Do on both squares. See diagram 1.
7. To complete the design you will continue to alternate on A, B anc C. A and B will always be just layered over previous bands and C will always be woven under the A band that just preceded it. See diagram 2. The sequence of colors will always be the same but you will start A with a different color each time. See table that follows for round 1, 2 and 3. You can repeat the color sequence starting at round 1 again until the ball is complete. Continue to wrap rounds moving the pins outward as you need to to keep things from slipping. Eventually the rows will be around a flat enough portion of the ball that you will not need the pins any longer.
8. The last round should require just five rows to fill in the space between the two opposite 'squares' of A, B and lastly C.

	A	B	C
Round 1	blue	yellow	green
Round 2	yellow	green	blue
Round 3	green	blue	yellow

Notes

This one really gave me a few fits. I started it with a specialty thread that was a wool/silk blend hoping that the friction of the wool would help it hold in place but it was too soft for the design and kept collapsing at the corners. For this design it is essential to have a firm fiber like perle cotton rather than anything softer since you need it to hold the shape around the corner in the early rounds. By round 4 Iwas able to take the pins out entirely. It was also a thread eater, requiring at least a full skein of each color. I started with partial skeins so I am not completely sure if it used more than one or not. I suspect that it did. I really like it done in three colors rather than just shades of one color like it is shown in the book. I wanted to add a little metallic to it but I could not get it to work into the rounds without leaving gaps so I abandoned the idea for now. For all that the design is pretty simple and straightforward, this was not an easy ball to do. Besides it being an all over and requiring a accurate division and all that, there was a fair bit of thread management to do in the early rounds as they kept trying to slip. If you pulled just a bit too tightly on your tension you could easily cause all fo the rows to collapse into an unsightly pile at the corners. It made me wonder if this is another of those that used glue although it did eventually work out just fine without it.

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