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Notebook Entry - 080101

Finished Views

 

Source

Japanese book Creative Temari (ISBN 4-8377-0696-7) color picture pg.20 ball #1

Classification

C8, multi, open shape, all over

Size

29cm circumference

Materials

Wrap

grey cone thread

Marking

use thin flat thread in inconspicuous color

Design threads

DMC #5 perle cotton blue (798), pink (3350), green (701)

Gold Rush 18 blue, green

Rainbow Gallery Cresta d'Oro pink (C21)

Division/Marking

C8 with multipole support lines

Diagrams

Diagram 1: multipole support lines, triangle based divide by 4. The diagram shows distortion due to the flat diagram of a curved surface; the spaces are relatively evenly sized in the finished marking.  
Diagram 2: placement of first set of shapes  
Diagram 3: detail of first square stitch placement. Red dot is the center of the shaded triangle. Place stitch so the row is just outside the red dot.  

Directions

1. Wrap mari and mark a C8 with a thin, flat and inconspicuous thread thread. I used a green metallic sewing thread.
2. Add support lines for a multipole marking. It is based on the triangle method and split with a factor of 4. See diagram 1.
3. Pick a color to use for the first round of shapes. I used pink. I did one round of metallic, 4 rounds of perle cotton and one round of metallic.
4. Use Diagram 2 to place the shapes. Start at one of the small squares and place the stitches so that the thread lies just outside the center of the triangle making up the square. See detail Diagram 3.
5. Stitch enough rows so that two adjacent shapes will almost meet, but leave a small gap inbetween them so you can place other stitches there. You will fill in the gap at the end. You will stitch squares, hexagons and pentagons as you work around the ball. The hexagons are not even close to regular so don't stress about it. The pentagons are house shaped rather than regular pentagons.
6. After completing all of the shapes in the first color, pick a second color and stitch another layer of shapes over the first. Some of the stitches will be inbetween the shapes in the first layer. Rotate the ball to start at a different small square (it will be one of the areas with two pentagons).
7. For the third layer you will weave under the shapes of the first layer and over the second. Rotate the ball to start on the last small square.
8. After completing the last layer of shapes, go back to each color and fill in rows as needed in between the shapes so that each one blends into the adjacent ones. You will be covering your marking lines or removing them in this step.

Notes

The base of the ball is not completely covered in this design although it comes close. It helps to choose a neutral color for the base so that it will blend in when you are all finished. If you make the shapes a bit narrower then more base will show, but the spaces where it peeks through are not regular so it is really not a great design point. This one seemed to take forever to mark and stitch. The marking was difficult because it was a multi mrking on a C8 and I am not used to that. In addition it was based on the triangle method but using a factor of 4 rather than a number that is a multiple of three so you end up with lots of weird spaces. I didn't want to use the multiple of three method because the marking did not need to be complete and a complete marking would have made it more difficult to see the shapes that I was supposed to be stitching. Once I got the first layer stitched it became much easier to see where the shapes were going to go and to understand the geometry; but man! This think was wonky; and not becuase my marking was off either. It is jsut the nature of the design. THere is another one on the same page of the book that is based on an even larger multi marking that I will try soon. It looks like the shapes are a bit more regular, but I think it is just an illusion.

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